The creation of a perfume: from conception to realization

This fall, two new Provençal fragrances have been added to the Authentiques collection: Verveine Citronnée and Tubéreuse Étoilée. These two new fragrances are an opportunity for Panier des Sens to open its doors and let you discover the behind-the-scenes process of creating a perfume.

We take you to meet Camille, a perfumery evaluator in Grasse, who sheds light on the process of creating a new fragrance.

WHAT IS THE JOB OF AN EVALUATOR?

The evaluator will make the link between the creative perfumer and the brand: its needs, its market, the different applications (candle, Eau de Toilette, cream...). She knows the market, the trends but also the technical constraints of the customer such as the price, the cosmetic formulas in which will be applied, the perfume etc. She thus guides the perfumer in his creative work and brings an outside view.

HOW IS A PERFUME COMPOSED ?

The structure of a perfume is composed of 3 levels:

• The top notes, the first impression of the fragrance. More fresh and sparkling, they diffuse over the first few minutes after application.
• The heart notes, also called the body of the perfume. They give the perfume its character and can be smelled for several hours.
• Finally, the base notes reveal themselves at least 3 hours after vaporization. They give depth and balance to the fragrance. They can persist for several days after the heart notes have disappeared.

WHAT INGREDIENTS DO YOU USE TO MAKE YOUR FRAGRANCES?

We have 1500 raw materials at our disposal: from natural raw materials which include the essential oils and the absoluteas well as synthetic raw materials.

The complexity of a perfume lies in thebalance between each of these raw materials.

WHAT IS THE PROCESS USED TO OBTAIN THESE RAW MATERIALS?

The vegetable raw materials come from flowers, fruits, herbs, spices, roots, wood and moss of various plant species. The essential oils are obtained by steam distillation (for example for lavender), or by cold expression of the zest for citrus fruits.

The absolutes are obtained by volatile solvent extraction (as for the Orange Blossom Absolute).

THE FEELING OF A PERFUME IS DIFFICULT TO DESCRIBE AND REMAINS SOMETHING VERY PERSONAL, HOW DO YOU MANAGE TO APPROPRIATE THE CUSTOMER'S REQUEST AND TO RETRANSCRIBE IT INTO A FRAGRANCE ?

It's all about teamwork! When a new brief is issued, the creative teams meet to discuss the project. Together, with the knowledge of the market and the watch of the trend, we define the axes of work according to the sensibility of each perfumer.

We regularly feel the work of the perfumers to validate or redirect the leads throughout the project. We evaluate the fragrances in real conditions in order to be as close as possible to the consumer's experience and everyone must be convinced and seduced by the fragrance before validation.

À Grasse, world capital of perfumeMaster perfumers practice their art with respect for tradition. That's why we called on them to develop our Lemon Verbena and Starry Tuberose fragrances. Sophie, product manager at Panier des Sens, tells us a little more about these new scents.

THE AUTHENTICS COLLECTION IS EXPANDING TO INCLUDE A NEW LINE OF SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND HOME FRAGRANCES: STAR TUBEROSE AND LEMON VERBENA. WHERE DID YOU GET THE IDEA TO LAUNCH THESE TWO NEW FRAGRANCES?

These two fragrances evoke of course Provence. Moreover, they are two fragrances around which gravitates a very different world, thus two stories to tell. Lemon verbena evokes the freshness, energy, an invigorating scentwhile the Starry Tuberose rather evokes a side soft and floralrecalling the charm and sensuality.

WHAT IS THE PARTICULARITY OF THESE SO DIFFERENT PERFUMES? ARE THEY COMMON IN COSMETICS?

These are two perfumes rich in beautiful raw materialsthey immediately plunge us into a universe and an imaginary world Provençal. In addition, these fragrances are not very common in cosmetics, which allows us once again to differentiate ourselves by proposing an alternative offer. We have chosen to offer these two fragrances as a diffuser, lip balm and soap extra-mild to recreate a whole perfumed universe at home!

A hint about the next scent to be released at Panier des Sens ?

Gourmet and sunny, a real Madeleine de Proust that evokes a childhood memory for everyone. See you in December to find out more! So, any idea of the next fragrance Panier des Sens ?